Cutting the pieces:

1. lay pattern near edge of latex with centerfold facing in

2. mark center line with grease pencil or tape

3. draw outline (or cut it with roller on the fly)

4. flip it over at the mid point and mark the other half

5. cut the drawn shape out if you havent

• when cutting watch out for wrinkles that run ahead of the blade. they will create jagged edges and sloppy measurements. stop, straighten, and resume.

• make sure some tape is on the same side of both pieces for consistency

6. repeat with the back panel piece

• good time to compare marked vs direct cut method

• use the first piece to find good placement for the second piece.

• watch out for previous cut marks at corners

• trim off any jaggedness that will turn into a run

Cementing the seams:

1. lay pieces side by side place marks or tape at matching points along the seam.

2. fold one side over to show the seam backside. place tape along both seams.

• Don't try to line tape up flush with the edge. overlap half to a quarter of the tape.

• Don't try to make anything but a straight line with the tape; Use multiple pieces to turn with the curves.

• Work from the armpit to the hip.

• flatness is key. wrinkles will make the glue very hard to apply.

• you may need to clean the seam to get tape to stick.

2. return folded piece flat and fold other piece so both un-taped sides are facing up.

3. Put a dab of solvent on a paper towel and wipe down where the seam will be.

• Don't skip this. It's not just cleaning, its important to the chemical process.

5. start applying the cement with the edge of the ruler

• This is surprisingly the most important step to the aesthetics.

• Following the straight line of cement is what leads to a nice straight seam

• using the clear graduated ruler rather than a credit card or brush allows you to see exactly how deep you are making the seam. Precision here affects precision later, be consistent.

• start on the top piece first to keep from smearing the bottom.

• put a 1/8” bead of cement on the broad side near the edge of the ruler.

• make a very thin layer of cement on the latex. thicker isn't better it just takes longer to dry... and you must wait for it to dry before you can press the pieces together.

• make sure the cement goes all the way to the edge of the latex. Though thin, the spread of cement needs to be consistent and reach the edge.

• don't put too much cement on the ruler or it will pool when you first touch it to the latex.

• A thicker seam isnt stronger. 1/4” is strong and looks nice, 3/8” allows room for error, 1/2” is overkill and actually weakens the seam by creating pockets of air or bad welds.

• bend the card or use the curved edge to get more precision along the curves. Use the whole edge to go faster at the flat parts... but never rush, the seam will wait for you.

• Cement is not glue. Glue sticks things together with only the strength of the glue between. The solvent and cement break down molecular bonds in the rubber which rejoin to the broken bonds of the opposite piece. When done correctly it creates a weld stronger than the original pieces.

6. wait for the glue to dry 5 minutes

• you can leave the wet seam for an hour or even overnight.

• Working on two garments at a time is a good way to eliminate downtime.

• if the cement is still too wet there will be pinching along the edge. when the latex relaxes back to a straight edge and the sheen dulls a bit the cement is fully dry.

• A hair dryer or blowing can speed up the process but is generally not worth the risk of moving the pieces around.

7. peel the tape off slowly and steadily from the same start point (armpit).

• this can be done before the cement is completely dry. Timed right it will safely show you the effects of wet cement on the sheet of latex.

• If the tape is removed while the cement is still very wet the latex may pinch hard enough to stick to itself. This is very frustrating to fix and becomes a bigger problem when working with thinner grades of latex sheet.

8. push the top piece back to give the bottom piece room to fold over.

9. Attach the top piece to the bottom piece.

• start at the armpit. Line up and tack the corner then slowly lay a few inches of the top piece onto the bottom.

• Be as gentle as possible laying the top piece down as you line up the seams. This is important to keep the top piece from stretching and to be able to undo a mistake. If you get off track you can pull the seam back apart until you have pressed them together. If you are confident about a section give it a press to seal it tighter.

• Take a break if needed by folding the top piece out. Time is not a factor in this step.

• Even trying to be gentle the top piece will still stretch slightly since this is a 3D curve pressed along a flat surface. you need to slightly stretch the bottom piece as you go to compensate.

• talc under the bottom piece will help it slide and stretch.

• enough light is a must. a shadow over the seam will make it very hard.

• don't freak out when it doesn't line up at the bottom. Accuracy is not critical with stretchy materials. Use the knife to trim up the difference between the seam ends.

10. Roller the seam as hard as you can.

11. Clean up any exposed glue with thinner and a paper towel.

Don't try to put it on for a few hours at least!